I’m on the way to Everest Base Camp. I want to use the next four days to get even better acclimatized. The weather looks like it’s going to be pretty good the next few days.
I want to really take advantage of the time so I’m totally prepared when a summit window opens 
up I’ll be ready to take on the big mountain. Maybe I am the Swiss Machine. When it became clear that it wouldn’t work out for the “Khumbu Express” (Northfaces of Cholatse, Tawoche and Ama Dablam) I totally changed my focus to Everest. I guess I’m just pretty simple in that I need a clear goal and clear ideas.
Ama Dablam together with Freddie Wilkinson was a good acclimatization expedition. Now, however, I don’t want to waste any time or let the weather wipe out any plans so I’m putting all my efforts to Everest. Along the way I’ve reflected a bit on how focused I actually am. I just can’t in such a case like this motivate myself for something else. I have to follow my own path. I’m really happy now and feel quite relieved that I’m on Everest. Now I’m working on my next goal, and I hope that it works out this time.
I’m also noticing how I’m changing; I think I’m getting older. The wildest phase of my life is now behind me. Now on Everest I’m toying with the thought to try the West Ridge; however, the conditions are really icy. This year in particular, for some strange reason, is a really busy one on Everest and in the Himalaya, although next year is the 50th anniversary of the first climb via the West Ridge. But now, there are two large teams in the area and the entire surrounding area is outfitted with fixed ropes, even on the tough West Ridge. That means whether you do the normal route or the West Ridge, it doesn’t make a lot of difference.
Maybe I will have the chance to do an ascent like the one on Makalu without using fix ropes. Or the one on Shisha Pangma last year, as I was on my way completely alone.
I notice that I’m perhaps a little less driven that I used to be. If it all works out then pedal to the metal! But when the conditions aren’t quite right I can accept it better now that that’s the way it is, and it’s just better to do something else. Somehow that’s a good feeling. I’m happy about it too. I’m just not so prepared to take big risks. Still, the fire is burning inside.
I still need athletic challenges just as much as before, but the risks have to be considerably less. I’m looking forward to the return from the expedition. I’ll get to go running, then plan to take on the Jungfraumarathon and then New York Marathon. Those are huge challenges for me. I am noticing too how I can still make such huge progress. I’m not a good runner but I can for sure get better. And that’s what it’s all about – working to develop yourself further, to make advances.
And that’s what fascinates me about Everest. It’s the highest mountain in the world, and I just want to experience one time what it’s like to stand on the top. You can’t go higher; the air will never be thinner.
Ueli Steck
